Although the corner of Queen Street East and Kenilworth is only a block away from tawny sands, blue waves and (sometimes very) cool breezes, it’s not a place you’d imagine kicking back with the likes of a shrimp ceviche or piña colada. That’s because Toronto’s bucolic Beach neighbourhood has not exactly been a draw for Latin American food – that is until the recent opening of Inmigrante.
As if to make up for lost time, Inmigrante doesn’t focus on the cuisine of a specific country or region. Instead the kitchen – helmed by chefs from Mexico and Colombia – jubilantly and ambitiously embraces the entirety of South and Central America.
Inmigrante is owned by Sergio Calderon and Rafael Bastidas. Both men emigrated to Toronto 10 years ago from Venezuela and Mexico (respectively) and worked their way up from dishwashers to managers of Latin American restaurants. In opening their own place, they not only sought to devise a menu that would bring together classic regional dishes from the entire continent, but also to create a welcoming space that would bring together hungry expats from Tijuana to Tierra del Fuego.
To this convivial end, Inmigrante’s food menu focuses on traditional botanas (snacks) that are ideal for sharing. There are Mexican tacos stuffed with carne asada, chicken tinga and pulled beef as well as Venezuelan arepas topped with reina pepiada (shredded chicken with avocado) and carne mechada (shredded beef with aji chile sauce). Colombian beef and cheese empanadas are served with piquant pico de gallo and there’s a piquant version of Argentinean choripan, a grilled chorizo sandwich slathered in emerald green chimichurri sauce.
For refreshment with a kick, try the Peruvian fish ceviche or Mexican cevichito with shrimp, drenched in marinades that are equal parts citrusy chill and fiery spice. An antidote to ubiquitous French fries, mashed plantain tostones and cassava croquettes offer lots to crunch upon.
Inmigrante’s drinks menu plays unexpectedly delightful riffs on classic tropical cocktails. The tried-and-true combo of rum and Coke that is a Cuba Libre takes on aura of veiled mystery courtesy of added smoke from a pump machine. The piña colada is a heady tropical mix of white and dark rum and pineapple juice into which a housemade coconut popsicle is plunged.
Enjoy both food and drink inside, at the teak dining tables or polished cement bar. Otherwise, follow the sign that cheekily announces “Bunch of immigrants at the back” down the side alley to the (heated!) patio, which promises to bring a little tropical heat to the Beach, even in the winter.
Inmigrante is located at 1959 Queen Street East and is open Tuesday to Thursday from 5 to 10 p.m., Friday from 5 to 11 p.m., Saturday from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 5 to 11 pm., Sunday from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 5 to 9 p.m.
