This year has been one crashing disappointment after the next and the understatement of the year would be to deem 2020 a weird one (it was downright insanity!). Nothing stayed the same and that sure does go for Toronto's restaurant industry.
We witnessed the shuttering of some of our most beloved institutions, the uprising of secretive and sought after pop-ups and the dominance of comfort fare over fussy, refined plates. We spent one too many hours curled up on the couch, with takeout containers to keep us warm and yearned for those evenings spent sitting in dimly lit restaurants chatting with acquaintances. We consumed more social media than ever and were infatuated by Tik Tok-fuelled trends that kept us entertained into the sometimes bleak hours of the day. We threw our strict diets to the wayside in favour of pizza and burgers and we drank more wine (natural wine) than we care to admit. It was one hell of a ride, but as 2020 comes to a close, we look back at the food and drink trends that defined Toronto this year.
Natural Wine
Potentially the greatest thing to happen this year was the ability to finally buy wine that did not reside on the shelves of the LCBO. Known for its stringent regulations and favouritism towards mass-produced bottles, it came with serious excitement to hear that restaurants and bars can now permanently sell wine and beer with takeaway orders that include a food item (even if that be a bag of chips). With that came the opportunity for people to purchase and drink more hard-to-find and rare wines. A practically unheard of movement only a few years ago, the buzz word for in-the-know wine folk these days seems to be those seeking out natural, funky or day I say it orange wines (call it skin contact). From Toronto wine connoisseurs The Grape Witches opening their own wine storefront, The Grape Glass, to natural wine bars now selling their collection of private imports online -- it has been a good year to stock up your home cellar.
Meal Kits
As lockdowns, limited table restrictions and imposing plexiglass barriers put a strain on restaurants' traditional dine-in operations; business owners were forced to quickly reevaluate how best to serve their customers. Takeout was the evident choice but not all food is meant to travel. Specifically pertaining to fine dining or small plate restaurants, spots across the city began to introduce patrons to new meal kits. There seems to be an inventive new offering launching every day from craft cocktail kits, Michelin-inspired fare and ready-to-reheat platters.
Pop-Ups
As the pandemic wore on and each week seemed to bring on a new onslaught of restaurant closures, something peculiar was happening in tandem. Chefs, line cooks, home cooks and laid-off workers were popping out of the woodwork with their new offerings. Completely forgoing the traditional brick-and-mortar storefront, these entrepreneurs were introducing Torontonians to their exciting new ventures. From burgers to small-batch ice cream to homemade pizza and impressive baked goods -- there was no shortage of new pop-ups being announced all across the city. Even restaurants were creating micro-pop-ups out of their storefronts that seemingly made more sense in a pandemic. As the traditional institution of the restaurant crumbled, the age of the pop-up seems to be rising from its ashes.
Smash Burgers
There was nothing new about smash burgers, but 2020 was the year the smash burger became sensationalized in the city. Originating in Denver, Colorado, back in 2007 and especially popular in New York City and Los Angeles, the smash burger is a chef's favourite for burger preparation. Toronto always seemed to favour the gourmet thick patty burger over the no-frills approach to the simple smash but not anymore. Cooked on a flat top griddle, the thin patties become seared into a caramelized crust and are typically topped with pickles, onions, cheese and special sauce. From Burger Drops to Matty's Patty's to Happy Burger and the most recent addition -- Victory Burger -- these joints might not all be strictly defined as smash burgers, but they follow the similar formula that favours no-fuss classics over extravagant burgers we've seen in the past.
Detroit-Style Pizza
Goodbye, impossibly thin New York-style pies because we've got a new favourite in town. The Detroit-style pie seems to be having a moment in the city and it comes as no surprise. Cooked in a thick sheet pan, this rectangular pie has an unbelievably crisp golden crust, a chewy and fluffy middle and is finished with decadent toppings and a deep flavourful tomato sauce. As Detroit lies only a few hours drive away from Toronto, it is no surprise that the city's influence has seeped into Toronto. The original outpost for this style of pie, Descendant Pizza, has welcomed this year's newcomer such as 8Mile and Saint Island Pies to the scene. If comfort food was embodied in one dish, this would be it.
Deli Sandwiches
Again, deli sandwiches are nothing revolutionary, but oh, did we see an uprising of spots dedicated to dishing out these subs in the city. From newcomers Lambo's and Elm Street Italian Deli to longstanding staples like Maker's bodega sandwich and SanRemo's muffuletta and unique offerings like Topol's massive Persian subs, the demand for quick, convenient and satisfying takeaway spots is apparent.
Dalgona Coffee
Like one too many Tik Tok-fuelled trends we witnessed the year our phones became our sole companion (at least one we could safely see in person), Dalgona coffee overtook everyone's feed. This frothy, whipped coffee made from equal parts sugar, instant coffee powder and hot water initially grew to fame in South Korea but the trend quickly spread in popularity as more people became absorbed in social media. Back in the spring, everyone seemed to be whipping up their own rendition at home and the foamy beverage even inspired a few Toronto bakeries to create their own Dalgona-inspired desserts.
Making Sourdough
What became apparent a few days into the initial quarantine back in March was the sudden inclination felt by many to start baking sourdough (trying to find flour or yeast was a crapshoot).
Social media was littered with tips on how to feed your starter, proud self-proclaimed bakers gloating about their outstanding crumb and promises made by many to swear to only bake their bread from there on out.
Whether it was the unprecedented amount of free time we suddenly faced or the desperation to control something as our lives spiralled into chaos -- baking bread seemed to be a beacon of comfort many were reaching out to.
What was started with high hopes and declarations of "how hard can this be?" quickly evolved into swampy looking jars of starter that were left to die in the far corners of fridges, hours of relentless folding and resting and the sheer realization that baking sourdough once, is good enough for most.
