After leading a nomadic existence since it first opened in late 2018, BB's Diner finally has a home of its own. In mid-September, the restaurant, whose weekend brunches have a cult following among, and far beyond, Toronto’s Filipino community, (softly) opened the doors of its space at 5 Brock Street, previously occupied by the cocktail bar, Superfly.
Owned and founded by Justin Bella, BB’s original – and notoriously pink – Kensington Market location quickly carved out an indelible and extremely well-seasoned niche for itself amid the city’s crowded, but sometimes bland brunch scene. However, soon after hitting its stride, in 2020, BB’s was hit by the twin catastrophes of Covid and its rental space being put up for sale. The double whammy caused the restaurant to close its doors, seemingly for good, although Bella vowed to bring it back one day.
That day came in April of 2022 when BB’s rose from the ashes – in Parkdale of all place. As part of a multi-faceted events venue known as Sari Not Sari, which was quite literally underground, it trafficked in brunch by day and a heady mix of drinks, music and vibes by night.
“We made a 'home', working with what we had, knowing that we would move on eventually,” Bella confided in a recent interview with Bianca Weeko Martin. “The community and culture of our venue Sari Not Sari and the ongoing BB’s Diner service [gained] momentum,” so much so that it rapidly outgrew its temporary basement digs.
BB’s new, and (very visible) above-ground home on Brock Street boasts a bigger space including a generous patio from which brunchaholics who arrive early for their French toast fix can watch lazy stragglers line up and salivate.
To wit, BB’s French Toast is not just any French Toast. Inspired by Bella’s mother’s recipe, it’s made from pillowy Japanese milk bread. Accompanied by mango compote and coconut dulce de leche, the entire production is showered in a nutty torrent of toasted almonds and coconut.
With a background in fine dining, Chef Robbie Hojilla is adept at playing unexpected riffs on classic Filipino favourites. His Filipino spaghetti swaps out the standard banana ketchup with a less overtly sweet caramel. There there’s the pork sinigang soup. Made with pork loin braised to near unbearable tenderness, the meat swims in a tangy tamarind-spiked broth along with charred heirloom tomatoes, wilted spinach, green beans and eddo, a relative of taro.
The house signature dish is undoubtedly the silog. These veritable platters feature fragrant garlic fried rice with fried egg and a choice of protein. The choices are extremely difficult and include a corned beef hash (braised for five days!), sweet and spicy, citrus-spiked longanisa sausage and crispy fried milkfish marinated in chili and cane vinegar.
By day, the tamarind-infused Tito Caesar is one of several brunch cocktails that keep spirits high (alongside bottomless cups of coffee). However, come 8 p.m., the food menu shrinks to snackables such as roast pork sandwiches and coconut boquerones, while the drinks menu expands. As the lights dim, candles are lit and DJs start spinning tunes until... “late”.
BB’s Diner doesn’t take reservations. As Norm Alconcel, a local comedian and fan of BB’s various incarnations, warns Instagram followers: “Get their early. There’s always a line up. Cause they are that good!”
BB’s Diner is located at 5 Brock Street and currently only accepts cash and e-transfers. At the present time, brunch is from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Friday to Sunday while cocktails and wine service begin at 8 p.m., Friday and Saturday.
