Grant van Gameren, a notable chef and restaurateur in Toronto, has just launched an exciting new endeavour dedicated to Sinaloa-style grilled chicken and sides.
Don Pollo, the takeout-only pop-up, is operating out of Quetzal -- a Mexican restaurant helmed by Gameren that has been closed since the onset of the pandemic back in March. The focal point for both of Gameren's offerings is the traditional flavours of cooking over an open flame, which is made possible by Quetzal's impressive 28-foot wood fire.
Gameren's restaurant portfolio in the city is rather impressive. It includes Bar Raval, Bar Isabel, Bar Piquette, Rosalinda, Harry's and El Rey (to name a few), so it came with great excitement to hear about the opening of the chef's latest venture.
Hailing from the Mexican state of Sinaloa, the ubiquitous roadside stalls dole out juicy, butterflied birds, marinated in spices and cooked slowly over a charcoal grill. Don Pollo spotlights the quintessential Sinaloa dish on their menu, as whole chickens are the thing to order.
On the menu are a whole chicken (brined and slow-cooked), six-piece legs and a Don P Sandwich comprised of pulled wood-fire chicken on a brioche bun topped with slaw, escabeche onions, spicy mayo and pork chicharron. Available sides include a Don P Slaw, fire-roasted potatoes, charred pineapple, creamy avocado dip and Valentina hot sauce.
The bird is impossibly succulent, charred and imbued with a wood-fired smokiness that is hard to replicate. The sides complement flavours of the chicken nicely, acidity from the escabeche and slaw cut through the richness of the chicken. Don Pollo's is an ideal meal for a small dinner party or even a go-to weekday meal when you can't bring yourself to step foot in the kitchen.
Don Pollo offers a meal unique to what anyone else is providing in the city, with a well-executed family-style dinner that works for multiple occasions and will appease the desire for a delicious but slightly health-conscious dinner.
Order a la carte or choose a Double Leg Meal, Don P's Chicken Dinner for Two or Don P's Family Chicken Dinner. Order for pickup through the restaurant or for delivery on Uber Eats. Don Pollo is available Sunday to Thursday from noon to 8 p.m. and Friday to Saturday from noon to 9.m.
