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The Berczy Tavern
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If you hear the word “tavern,” and immediately imagine dusky, beer-soaked barrooms where food is as inconsequential as the décor, then The Berczy Tavern’s name will certainly seem a misnomer. Far from dowdy, the restaurant and piano bar is instead imbued with jazz-era finesse and an old-meets-new ethos. As laid-back as a tavern? Sure. But mix in live music and a parade of modern plates, boozy treats and smooth service, and you'll realize that The Berczy Tavern may be hard to define but is impossible not to enjoy.
Within the community of chefs and restaurateurs skilled at populating our city with go-to eateries, the names Michael Angeloni, Adam Teolis and Yannick Bigourdan pop up with some regularity. At Amano Trattoria, Bar Notte, and now The Berczy Tavern, the trio seems intent on infusing life into what Teolis calls “a great area with a not so great restaurant scene.”
“We want a place that people can rely on at any moment,” adds Teolis. “For a lunch date, a meeting, a drink. We want to build a sense of community.”
When a spot inside a heritage building that executive chef Angeloni admits he has always been “in love with” became available, the group jumped at the chance to create its New American brasserie.
Named for William Berczy, one of the founders of the Town of York, The Berczy Tavern feels timeless without being old-timey. Dramatically brought to life by Ian Hall Design, the restaurant is punctuated by a backlit bar and spotless piano parked at the centre of the action. Sculptural fixtures illuminate red brick walls where jazz greats smile down from a collection of stylish portraits. With the magnetic allure of a crooner in his heyday, it’s a space sure to find a second life hosting an endless cycle of weddings and private events.
In the livelier front space or more sedate dining room, guests reset over bar manager Eric Clark’s list of meticulously balanced sippers. “My goal is to make amazing drinks that people will enjoy,” he says, adding that the team “takes cocktails very seriously."
Hoping to revive some less ubiquitous options, the team's list of Modern Classics includes a Paloma, Vesper and properly bracing Sazerac, made with Lot 40 Whisky, brandy, Peychaud’s bitters, demerara and Pernod.
Signature offerings, the crisp Something Borrowed and refreshing Wildcat both hint at Clark’s time at Le Tigre Bar, where creativity and proprietary ingredients are much-lauded components of mixology.
With dishes inspired by Spain and Asia, others that are clearly Italian or Mexican, The Berczy’s menu defies categorization. Instead, it’s a menu that’s as Toronto as they come — inspired, as chef Angeloni says, “by people I’ve worked for or with.” With a list of muses that includes chefs David Lee and Brandon Olsen, Ben Dunham and more, Angeloni’s menu is a sumptuous multicultural symphony of flavours.
Though Dinner Rolls may not jump off the page, you’d be wise to invite the team’s pillowy buns to your party. Flecked with toasted milk solids, their companion spread is butter that’s been taken “just to the edge of burnt,” according to Angeloni. Salty and sweet, weightless and creamy, this is the bread service of a talented kitchen looking to wow at every turn.
Beef Tartare and Crab Cakes might read like straightforward go-tos but take a closer look and you’ll recognize Angeloni’s unfettered touch. For his tartare, chef relies on pickled ramps, for acid; fennel chili sauce, for heat; capers, crisp shallots and a dusting of parm, for seasoning and added texture. Is the baguette served with the tartare toasted in beef fat to push its golden hue and its umami flavour? You bet it is.
Under a tangle of fennel and celery salad, chef’s Crab Cake arrives in a neon pool of roasted tomato emulsion, ringed by forest green dill oil. Fat with fresh crab, not filler, this dish is tangy and bright compared to others of its ilk.
In Steak Frites, chef takes a classic and makes it the belle of The Berczy. Rosy within with a seasoned crust, every morsel of meat could easily stand on its own. Instead, mop every bite through the turmeric-tinted café de Paris butter, add a little veal jus, and live a little. Then dunk some triple-cooked fries in garlic aioli and count your blessings.
Lighter, yet no less fun, Pan Roasted Halibut is another dish that benefits from Angeloni’s creative approach. With vadouvan sauce, shrimp oil and al dente glazed carrots, the dish is vibrant and lush, smoky, sweet and outrageously elegant.
Prim and precise, with surprising touches, pastry chef Carl Tacuyan’s desserts are a fitting end to a meal at The Berczy Tavern. In every one — from the rich Praline Profiterole and seasonal Strawberry Opera Cake to a Carrot Cheesecake that finds a generous amount of spice matched to an equally lavish level of sweetness — it’s clear chef has put in the work and is now just having a really good time.
With its confident cooking, historic backdrop and live music, The Berczy Tavern feels like a Toronto fixture. And though it could be plucked from another era, it also feels sexy and bold and exactly right for right now.
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