Okeya Kyujiro | TasteToronto

Yorkville

Omakase

Okeya Kyujiro

Written By

Erica Commisso

Photographs By

Carbelle Djossa

If you blink - or you’re not paying enough attention - it’s completely possible to miss Okeya Kyujiro as you walk by. The only indicator that the building isn’t just jam-packed with office spaces is the occasional presence of a woman dressed in traditional Japanese attire, who stands on the stairs and directs visitors inside, up the stairs to what appears to be a vending machine.

But, in true speakeasy style, it’s a door, leading to something beautiful: a 10-seat omakase restaurant decorated with warm wood panels and authentic Japanese practices. When the curtains come up, it’s a live look into traditions old and new, and the multi-course tasting menu - which rotates often, sometimes even daily - serves as a culinary tour of Japan.

“One of this restaurant's core objectives is to introduce Japanese culture to its clientele,” says the owner, Chef Takuya Matsuda. “The restaurant places significant emphasis on more than just its culinary offerings. It also strives to integrate elements of Japanese art and culture into its overall concept. Consequently, we have developed a unique theatrical omakase experience, which includes a traditional Japanese tea ceremony and Sasagiri (bamboo leaf art) as part of the entertainment.”

Okeya Kyujiro offers two time slots, 5:45 p.m. and 8:15 p.m, and navigates guests through a roughly 20-course experience, comprised of mostly sushi, that takes about an hour and a half to enjoy.

“I created an outline of the course menu, but we do make changes to this depending on the season and the quality of the source ingredients,” Chef Matsudo says. “The head chef of each location makes the final decision on the course menu on the day.” There are three locations across Canada - the one in Yorkville, one in Vancouver, and one in Montreal. But, across all three, sushi prepared from fish like eel and tuna is made in front of the guests.

“It’s important to recognize that all food items have an optimal time for consumption,” Chef Matsudo says. “The quality of fish varies depending on the season. Some fish are fattier and therefore of a higher quality for consumption. Japan is comprised of four distinct seasons, which are highly valued and celebrated.” As a result, the sushi offering of the menu changes to accommodate what can be imported and what is in season.

Soups like a kabocha surinagashi (a pumpkin soup), an Aradashi miso soup with broth made of shrimp shells and ramen made in-house also complement the sushi dishes, offering a peek at more traditional Japanese recipes from across the country. In some cases, the ramen even boasts edible gold flakes.

To ensure authenticity, Chef Matsudo brings in most of the ingredients from different parts of Japan. “While shipping ingredients to Canada from Japan is a time-consuming process, the quality of fish in Japan is consistently high. To ensure the quality of our ingredients, I conduct regular monitoring visits to fish markets every two to three months,” he says. “This allows me to assess the quality of fish and identify trends in Japan. Based on these findings, I have decided to source ingredients from Japan.” The same process applies to the sake served at Okeya Kyujiro.

The intimate, ten-seat space is deliberate, and ensures Chef Matsuda can bring the best omakase chefs from Japan to his Canadian restaurants. “I have a strong connection to the cooking and sushi school in Japan, and each year, the top graduates join our team,” he says, adding that he sends them to Montreal and Vancouver as well.

From the elusive entrance to the theatrical presentation the high-quality dishes and ingredients, Chef Matsuda wants everything to be about the guest. “We are committed to offering our customers the freshest, highest-quality dishes while also offering multi-sensory dining entertainment,” he says. “We appreciate customer’s time and aim to provide a once-in-a-lifetime experience through theatrical omakase.”

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