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Nobu
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After 30 years, more than 50 star-studded openings and enough lychees and black cod to feed a small nation, Nobu has landed in Toronto. The first Canadian location of the global restaurant group, Nobu Toronto is striking and sophisticated, fiercely expensive and unpretentious (promise) with a menu that covers all the hits you’d expect along with several surprises.
At its core, says Nobu Toronto executive chef Alex Tzatzos, Nobu is all about simplicity. The company, he explains, was built around chef Nobu Matsuhisa’s appetite for letting gorgeous ingredients shine. “As chef Nobu always says, you don’t want to overkill a protein,” explains Tzatzos. “I like this mentality. Let the earth and the product talk itself.”
Despite appearances, it’s also quality, not price point, that comes first. “Nobu, he loves to have the best quality at his restaurants,” he continues. “Doesn’t have to be the most expensive. The freshness, that’s the key. The goal is to focus on the product itself and how fresh it is.”
Of course, chef Nobu’s signature recipes — sought-after treasures that combine his Japanese roots with Peruvian touches, like Black Cod Miso and Yellowtail Sashimi with Jalapeño— haven’t hurt his brand. Neither, it’s safe to say, has the celebrity backing that saw his vision grow from one restaurant to dozens, plus a handful of hotels.
Designed by Studio Munge, the theatrical Toronto space spans 10,000 square feet across two levels. From the dusky welcome of the moody ground-level lounge, guests are invited to climb a sweeping staircase (or ascend via elevator) to the restaurant’s bar and main dining area. Inspired by ocean waves, the former is a radiant space located adjacent to the restaurant’s outdoor terrace. Meant to mimic a modern courtyard, the dining room feels spacious and serene, its tranquil atmosphere ruffled only by the team’s repeated chants of “Irasshaimase!,” or “Welcome to our home,” spoken to greet guests as they enter the room.
It's in this welcome, in the servers’ casual attire and the dining room’s lack of tablecloths, that Nobu Toronto’s simplicity shines. Yes, the team trades in flawless service, plates that look as snatched as the clientele, and in delivering an experience that’s hard to fault. Still, where some places intimidate, Nobu Toronto operates from a place of joy.
If cocktails are your thing, there’s no better way to embrace the Nobu spirit than with a bracing, bright libation. Don’t be shy: get the Lychee & Elderflower Martini, and see for yourself what makes the dangerously easy-drinking sipper a Kim Kardashian fave. Crisp and juicy, made here with Spirit of York Vodka, St. Germain Elderflower liqueur and fresh lychee, it’s the type of cocktail that’ll vanish slightly more rapidly than it should.
Another signature, the Oni Negroni is a powerhouse of Hendrick’s Gin, Hokusetsu Sake, Aperol and Cocchi Vermouth di Torino.
Unique to Toronto, both the Midnight in the 6ix and 1942 Hinote are bold picks, with not insignificant price tags. For the first, the team stirs together Michter’s US1 Straight Rye Whiskey, Kahlua Liqueur, Amaro Nonino and Briottet Banana. For the menu’s most expensive mixed drink, at $70, a luxurious base of Don Julio 1942 is blended with Pierre Ferrand Dry Curaçao, citrus and agave. Our advice? Make it last.
Take small sips as you nibble on Nobu Tacos, be they wagyu, salmon or white fish. Hug the glass as you take in the sizeable menu, a tome that hops from cold and warm small plates, to tempura, hot entrées, sushi, sashimi and desserts.
Two of chefs favourite dishes, Grilled Jumbo Shrimps with Yuzu Kosho and Grilled Lamb Chops with Hacho Miso each put their star ingredient in the spotlight. Zingy and savoury, they’re made possible by the team’s fervent dedication to quality.
“Fish comes in four times a week from Japan,” explains Tzatzos. “Best product means AAA rib eye, prime. Tuna from BC, sea urchin. When it’s in season, of course we use it. I love to support local products. Our flowers and herbs are 100% local.”
The approximate diameter of a teacup, Pan-Fried Scallop with Yuzu Truffle is rich and glossy, its edges seared to a golden crisp, its centre tender, smooth and sweet.
Side it with tri-coloured Roasted Cauliflower Jalapeño, for a meal that will change your entire outlook on the humble brassica.
Made with Kinuhikuri rice, a staple at Nobu restaurants across the globe, sushi is a natural next step. It’s a course that can take the shape of one or two maki, a few sublime morsels of sashimi or an entire platter of the ocean’s bounty, including toro, salmon, scallop and spot prawn nigiri and spicy king crab rolls girded with diaphanous soy paper.
If dessert remains a possibility, there are small treasures, like chewy Mochi with silken hearts and house-made Gelati, along with more complex offerings, like Buttermilk Donuts, a Miso Caramel Ice Cream Bon Bon and a baked Alaska that feels more like a baked Pacific Island thanks to its trifecta of tropical flavours.
Buzzed about since day one, Nobu Toronto has already charmed local and visiting celebs, scores of influencers, avid foodies, and Nobu stans eager to judge the brand’s newest jewel. To chef Tzatzos, what matters is that every diner have an exceptional experience. “We don’t have this level of VIP and non-VIP. It doesn’t exist for us, or at least for me as a chef. Everyone for me is a VIP.”
So don something glam, take in the sumptuous room, and sample chef Nobu’s famed dishes right here at home. Nobu Toronto is now open, and you’re going to want to experience it for yourself.
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