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Deauville Club
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Deauville Club brings the glitz and glamour of Hollywood to Revery Toronto Downtown, Ontario’s first Curio Collection by Hilton hotel. A place where luxe fabrics and a profusion of pink encourage guests to shrug off the stresses of the day, Deauville Club’s French-inspired menu further bolsters the spot’s escapist feel.
“Deauville is a region in France,” explains executive chef Tom Chlebek. “Some of the things that we serve come from Deauville, but most of the stuff comes from the general Toronto area.”
A portfolio of unique hotels, the Curio Collection is known for the way each property celebrates its surroundings. “Being a Curio,” adds Chlebek, “we cater to the community. We reflect the community. It’s the first Curio in Toronto so we want to ensure that whoever visits will get the Toronto experience when they come here.”
Inspired by its Entertainment District location — the hotel is mere steps away from TIFF Lightbox and King West’s bustling theatres — every corner of Revery Toronto Downtown embraces Hollywood chic.
At Deauville Club, the theme carries over in dramatic, Art-Deco inspired touches and an unapologetic devotion to rosy hues. One can just imagine a starlet swooning on the blush-toned sectional greeting guests at the door.
No doubt, one of food and beverage director Calum Wilson’s thoughtful cocktails could easily revive her. Each one, explains Wilson, is part of a menu that is “all about the locale. We created a cocktail program that’s great for hotel guests but very much opens up to the local area.”
“The restaurant itself is such an eclectic space, a bold space, so it needs a very personable cocktail menu to it,” he adds. “[The menu has] got elements of the ‘80s, ‘70s to it. That playfulness.”
It’s also, he adds, designed to showcase “the unique aspect and the quality to every drink,” with premium and house-made ingredients used to maximum effect in each and every recipe. The simple goal, says Wilson, was “to create a space where you can come in knowing consistently that you can get a great cocktail.”
On the Act I menu (Act II will follow later this year), guests will find a number of drinks “named quite specifically to celebrate what the restaurant is or what the ingredients are,” says Wilson.
With Mount Gay Rum, Aperol, Madeira, pineapple, lime, strawberry and yogurt, the Palomino is about “celebrating travel, exploration, members clubs. It has a high-end feel.” It’s also a cocktail that “shows the approachability of rum,” says Wilson, “even for people who might not be rum drinkers.”
Served in a wine glass, for its “bold look,” the Spiced Ruby is a unique take on a sour, made with spiced rum, Aperol, house salted grapefruit cordial, lemon and a sudsy egg-white foam.
The Botanist Islay Dry Gin, house yuzu-pandan syrup and egg whites come together in the dramatically bright Pandan Sour, a drink that’s juicy with herbal notes and a balanced sweetness. It’s also one of many options that the team can prepare without alcohol, thanks to Noa Garden Gin.
Café Coco, the team’s twist on an espresso martini, was designed to bring to mind “the streets of Paris,” says Wilson. Coconut-fat-washed vodka and fresh coconut enhance the flavours in a very subtle way, he assures.
Content, appetite piqued, chef Chlebek’s food menu should be your next target. Classically French here and there, with no shortage of global touches, it boasts a list of seasonal dishes meant to have broad appeal.
“We’re the only restaurant in the hotel,” explains Chlebek, adding that the space is open for breakfast, Saturday brunch and dinner. “We want to make sure that we’re representing Toronto but we also want to be very inclusive of dietary restrictions, things for vegans, for celiacs, for people with all kinds of religious backgrounds. We have everything that someone could be looking for.”
“We want to give the client a lot of value,” he adds. “We do like to make the food look great, presentation is a big part of it, but more importantly are the flavours, the seasonings, the spices.”
Begin with plant-based, gluten-free Summer Rolls and you’ll see what chef means. Crunchy and vibrant, with a sweet, chili-laced dipping sauce, they’re a light and fresh first course. They’re also, like most of the menu’s items, meant to be shared.
Mains range from Croque Madame to seafood-heavy Paella and Cornish hen blanketed in baharat seasoning. Scented with cumin and cinnamon, coriander and pepper, then finished with red pearl onion jus, the meat is earthy, rich and a testament to the kitchen team’s know-how.
Another meatless option, vegan Bamboo Curry relies on a fragrant base of yellow curry to boost each lush, vegetal mouthful.
For a Madeira-spiked dish of Brome Lake Quebec duck, the team “created a special spice blend,” says Chlebek, with espresso and lots of aromatics. “You’ll notice when you taste it. It really pops out when you take a bite,” he adds.
“That particular dish is from my childhood,” says chef of the Blueberry Pierogies found on Deauville’s dessert menu. “My background is eastern European, I’m from Poland,” he adds. “No one really serves it, and I want everyone to experience it.”
With a satisfying chew, intense blueberry filling and sauce, it’s a dish that feels too rustic for the sleek room but will charm nonetheless.
“This room feels a certain way,” says Chlebek of Deauville Club. “It has a beautiful feel to it. It’s a fantastic place to go on a date or to have a celebration.” Much like the movies themselves, it’s also a stellar spot to inhabit if you long to suspend reality for a spell.
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