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Biff's Bistro
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With its undeniable charm blessedly intact, its menu of classic French fare refined and its look refreshed, Biff’s Bistro is, once again, open for service. A spot that has thrived since before the turn of the century, Biff’s is flaunting a sparkly makeover and renewed purpose as it launches its second act.
When one thinks of French food, visions of artful plates, fresh ingredients, meticulous techniques and complex recipes come to mind. It’s the cuisine many chefs base their training on, and is as fundamental to cooking (whether the end result is French, or not) as any other cuisine in the world. With its reliance on booze and butter, cheese, herbs and a feast of flavourful building blocks, it’s also damn delicious.
A restaurant, then, that trades in faithful renditions of classic French dishes is as appealing as a sojourn in Paris’ 4th arrondissement. No, this isn’t France. But sitting on a bistro chair, a glass of Biff’s Red in hand and a piping hot plate of garlic-butter-soaked Escargots de Bourgogne scenting the surrounding air, Biff’s Bistro doesn’t feel that far off.
Originally opened by O&B Hospitality in 2000, Biff’s has always felt charming and lively, elegant yet accessible. Beloved for its classic French plates, the restaurant also helped solidify O&B’s reputation for running quality restaurants with smooth-as-silk service.
Fast-forward 24 years, and you’ll find Biff’s Bistro 2.0 newly situated steps away from its original location, taking up approximately half of the space formerly known as the O&B Café Grill Yonge & Front.
“It’s all coming together,” says chef de cuisine, Trenton Pajuluoma, surveying the recently-opened space. “It’s been really rewarding to get regulars back in and actually put food on plates. None of us wanted to close. That’s why we wanted to keep the original spirit of Biff’s here.”
The retro entrance awning may be gone but, with furnishings — from Bordeaux-coloured banquettes and marble tables to the zinc bar top — salvaged from the original restaurant, the room feels familiar from the moment diners step inside. Vintage posters charm from the walls, with a family of toasty hues banding together to cloak the room in warmth. Its classic look put together by the team at Solid Design Creative, the restaurant is sophisticated with an airier feel than in its previous life.
On a menu meant “to do French food justice,” as explained by Pajuluoma, the team, led by O&B district executive chef John Horne, sticks closely to an approachable selection of France’s greatest culinary hits. “We’re not reinventing the wheel,” he adds, explaining that technique and quality, as well as respect for ingredients, are at the core of the team’s every move.
Favourites, including French Onion Soup and Liver and Onions made the cut, with other dishes, like Crispy Pig’s Ears, Bouillabaisse and the team’s Lamb Merguez Burger, bowing out to make room for a number of new arrivals.
The cocktail card also features old standbys and refreshing new options. Divided into three main categories — Biff’s Favourites, Signatures and Spritzers — with more pages devoted to martinis, spirit-free sippers and wines, the extended menu has plenty to consider.
Named for the year that France gained independence, the 1789 is a take on the classic Bastille. A bubbly mix of Cocchi Americano Bianco, Lot No. 40 Rye Whisky, Peychaud’s bitters and sparkling wine, the drink is zesty and bright, with the warmth of herbs at its core.
Made for patio sipping — or dreaming about it, come winter — the Rose de Provins finds Dillon’s Rose Gin, hibiscus rosehip bitters, grenadine, lemon, prosecco and an Amarena cherry garnish swirled into a fun and feminine liquid diversion.
Guzzle either one, then move onto wine — the most sensible drink to pair with anything from Biff’s sizeable menu. Beyond the “rosé all day” selections, there’s a hefty number of glasses and bottles, with an obvious bias toward local and old-world options.
In-season tomatoes, sourced from 100KM Foods, pretty up a simple plate, along with pickled shallots, greens and olive tapenade. Salted minutes before serving, then brightened with a trio of citrus zests, the tomatoes “dress themselves,” explains Pajuluoma. The dish is “super light and summery,” he adds. “The tomatoes are the stars and we don’t get in their way.”
Similarly, onions are lifted to celebrity status in Soupe a L’Oignon that’s bold and rich, wearing the perfume of its booze-soaked beginnings. Made from oodles of thin-sliced onions that are cooked low and slow until deeply caramelized, the soup also includes a good amount of port, brandy, red wine, herbed chicken stock and veal reduction. Topped with baguette and a three-cheese combo, it could easily have come out of the kitchen at one of Paris’ best bistros.
Another classic, Chicken Liver Parfait is sized to share. An offal dish for those, says chef, “who don’t love offal,” it’s a buttery liver spread heightened with port, Madeira and a host of zesty things. It’s served with Biff’s sharp, balsamic-heavy mustard, a condiment so popular that guests ask, according to Pajuluoma, “if they can buy it in a jar.”
The colour of mahogany, Coq Au Vin is hearty and homey, its combination of dark and white meat thoroughly soused with wine-heavy sauce. “It’s a staple that will probably always be on the menu,” admits Pajuluoma. “This is one that I’m not going to mess with, ever,” he adds. Served with silky pommes purée, made with “lots of cream, lots of butter,” blanched beans, roasted mushrooms and lardon, it’s a dish that expertly straddles the line between elegant fare and the type of rustic, bone-sticking meal grand-mère might have made.
On an extended list of steaks, designed to “give people options for price point and the cut they like,” according to Pajuluoma, a 7-ounce Steak Au Poivre is a standout. No, it’s not served with frites (though, presumably, the team would be happy to sub out the pommes purée, if asked) but it is served with café au lait sauce that’s spiked with green peppercorns, is velvety and rich and entirely habit-forming. As with any French kitchen worth its weight, this one excels where sauces are concerned.
In keeping with the rest of the menu, desserts are traditional and will tick every box for people looking for familiar comforts. “We always have crème brulee, something chocolate and usually something like a cheesecake,” says Pajuluoma. “And we always have something with fruit.” Opt for vanilla-scented Classic Crème Brûlée or a Raspberry & Blackberry Tart built on a sable shell, and, if your aim is to sate a sweet tooth, you won’t leave disappointed.
At Biff’s Bistro, sauces simmer for hours, condiments cure for days and plates are bolstered by a flurry of elements that demand dedication and attention to craft. If you hadn't noticed, Biff's Bistro is back — and you'll want to visit tout de suite.
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